Two Roads to the Pamirs. 3700 km. from Chang-an to Kashgar--in old days a full year’s journey. Kashgar’s main mosque and celebration of end of Ramadan with thousands in square; music and dancing (for men only).“Tomb of the Fragrant Concubine“ (Abakh Khoja Mausoleum), burial place of 17th and 18th century Naqshbandi Sufi rulers; legend of the Kashgari woman Xiangfei, who met tragic fate as emperor’s concubine. School for non-Chinese--cute kids identify their ethnic groups in rogues’ gallery lineup. Bazaar an
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