HOW TO MAKE A 17TH CENTURY SPANISH COLLAR: Constructing the Golilla and Valona
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How to construct a mid 17th century style Golilla Collar and Valona. In direct answer to Royal decrees that Elizabethan style ruffs were no longer permitted to worn in Spain, linen workers created this unusual style of collar. Made from a piece of straight-cut linen, it relies on bias, stitching and shaping techniques to achieve the classic Spanish shape.
The name of this neck piece, Golilla is actually the name for the under-propper and the linen piece itself is the “valona“ which is named after the Dutch region from which the original concept for the collar was taken. In Jacobean costuming, people often attempt to make collars like this by cutting the piece to shape and simply finishing the edges, but the singular, truly Spanish extant example that we have of this kind of collar, it shows that the piece of linen from which it is cut is a perfectly straight rectangle.
The skill of the ne
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