Hippo dodges bullet with an onshore beast at Fiji on the biggest swell of the year.
I got out to Cloud Break Fiji a bit late that morning, the wind had already come on strong and almost onshore. I knew the odds of making a wave that late morning weren’t great. I missed a few good opportunities with being out of position and was pissed off with myself.
When this wave came to me I made sure I wasn’t going to miss it.
I almost got stuck in the lip on the take-off and had to air drop on the take-off. My tail
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