Dilyara Kaipova’s practice includes creating designs for abra fabrics, which are then produced together with local artisans in Margilan, Uzbekistan. The fabrics are subsequently sewn into traditional items of Uzbek clothing. In her designs the artist juxtaposes traditional abra motives with contemporary symbols, such as Mickey Mouse, Scream mask, Kremlin and many more. With this process a chapan becomes a work of art, creating a powerful statement about globalization and its impact on values and national identity.
Abra fabrics are made by hand, the patterns are created by the method of sequential reserved dyeing of threads - the area that should not be dyed is tied up before immersion in a vat of dye so as not to absorb the dye. The number of colors in the pattern is equal to the number of bundles, therefore abra patterns have blurred outlines resembling cirrus clouds (which is reflected in the name: from Farsi, “abr” is translated as “a cloud carrying moisture”).
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