It sounds scary and dangerous, but it only seems that way.
I like Big Wave more — it’s a separate discipline within surfing, where the main thing is not so much the tricks as the size of the wave.
This is when you are hoisted up on a winch and a column of water falls on you and it seems that a building is collapsing on you.
I have been riding actively for 12 years and have tried myself in many sports and activities throughout my life, but surfing cannot be compared to anything. This is a separate kind of pleasure, it’s like meditation, only cooler!
I wish everyone to experience this feeling, by the way, who has tried surfing on big waves?
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6 months ago 00:45:30 1
Study with me l 45 min cozy Lofi music 🤍🎧 light academia desk motivation to study 📚